Growth & Contraction of Wood Flooring
“The flooring shop said to leave 10mm for solid wood floor expansion at the surfaces… now the boards are lifting off the floor. ” Ill informed advice such as this often causes floor problems. Many flooring sales people not familiar with solid wooden flooring assume expansion is the same as layered flooring. In fact that 10mm is insufficient for sturdy wood flooring. epoxy floor paint
Precisely what is An Expansion Location? Why do some of us Need It?
Enlargement areas are spaces still left around the perimeter of rooms, against fixed things such as columns, thresholds, hearths, skirting boards, and other stationary items built or secured in to the mounting structure of the home. Despite the fact that Hardwood flooring used has ceased to be living and breathing it still reacts to water modifications in our environment. The cells in the solid wood will take on or absorb water when the relative humidness is high, or when confronted with water. Expansion requires place, and the hard wood grows, for lack of a clearer term, across the grain (width) of the plank (see below, not all will respond this way). Conversely when air moisture levels lower, moisture content evaporates, diminishing of the solid solid wood will occur.
When we say spaces, they can be identified as installing the wood flooring up to and away from the predetermined objects. Such as; “we recommend at least 15mm small to medium area-18mm growth on larger areas at the skirting board or wall if new skirting to be fitted. inch
Hardwood flooring can respond to the occurrence of moisture. In the dried out winter heating months, water can leave the solid wood flooring triggering the floor to contract slightly in size, which can leave slight gaps between each floor board. During the summer weeks when the humidity is higher, the hardwood floor coverings will expand and the gaps will disappear. When there is too much moisture in the subfloor it will cause the wood cedar planks to cup, or strip. Almost all problems related to hardwood flooring are anticipated to improper installation and sub-floor preparation. This is why it is important setting up hardwood floors that you follow the correct recommended installation methods by the manufacturer.
Immediate Glue Installations
A immediate glue installation requires the use of a floors adhesive applied directly on the subfloor (never straight apply to the boards). This process can be used on concrete and wood subfloors. When done appropriately this is the most stable method for installing wood flooring as the elastic flooring adhesive allows the ground to increase and contract with no problems.
If you are laying over a solid subfloor you will first need checked the solid moisture, if the floor has a moisture content of over 4% then either wait until the sub floor dries to meet this level or how to use appropriate moisture barrier, we recommend Sika Mb Primer to ensure no damp increases up into your new floor.
Also note that new concrete slabs require a the least 62 days drying time before covering them with a wood floor.
All Concrete floor sub-floors must be dry out, smooth, level and free of structural defects. In the event the concrete sub floor is uneven we recommend using sika latex self ranking up compound to level the subfloor. The concrete must also be free of contaminants i. e. car paint, oil, wax grease, dirt and grime and curing compounds (the reason for this is the fact you need the self leveling chemical substance to bond to the sub floor). These may be removed chemically or mechanically as your local hardware store and they will sell the right floor cleaner, but do not use solvent-based stripdance under any circumstances. The use of residual solvents can create complications with the bonding of flooring creams. It is important to ensure a proper relationship between the adhesives and concrete and wood energy.
If you have a wooden subfloor you will need to lay a plywood base within the existing floor boards (we recommend using 4mm -6mm outside grade plywood and mess down every 15cm along the edges and at 20cm intervals throughout the rest of the plank using the 1 in . deck screws) before assembly, this will then give you a smooth and level surface so that you can mount you hardwood flooring on to.
You will need to leave a 15mm development gap throughout the perimeter of the room for large areas over 6 metres in length we recommend 18mm expansion gap. To keep this gap during unit installation spacers are provided in the kits. After you have installed the hard wood floor you can cover this expansion gap with scotia or new skirting boards The 15mm development gap also needs to be left in gates in which the hardwood floor uses through from one room to another we sell on this excellent website an entire range of door profiles open to match your floor.
Pinned Down Installations
Nailed down installation is the traditional way to install hard wood floors and is done either directly onto wood subfloor or over a solid subfloor with the use of battens. When mending battens onto concrete you will desire a power-actuated nailer to drive through the battens and fix immediately into the concrete, first of all lay out polyethylene dampness sheet then plywood over the battens to create a new sub floor. We recommend 12mm external grade plywood and 2inch x 4inch battens. Put battens around perimeter at 1/2 inch from the wall, leave 1/4 in gap at each end. Position the first batten so its centre is 16 inches from the outside edge of the perimeter batten. Lay away the rest of the battens across the area 16 inch periods. Always check you battens are level by using a level gauge you may need to use cedar shims to level out scoops in the concrete, slip the shims under the battens until level. (If in doubt we recommend consulting a professional better for this method).